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Find Gallic country classics at this spin-off of the East Village bistro. Chef Richard Krause (Spago, Cafe Luxembourg) draws inspiration from the owners' upbringings in Lorraine, turning out classics such as duck leg confit and whole branzino roasted in a sea-salt crust. Lighter fare include "noodles" made from fresh hearts of palm and Pacific salmon carpaccio brightened by lemon and dill. Take a seat at one of the long wooden tables or sidle up to the ten-seat granite-topped bar for house-cured charcuterie and wine à la ficelle, a fancy term that means you can pay for only the amount you consume.
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