Celestino (CLOSED)

Bed-Stuy booster Massimiliano Nanni (Piadina, Gradisca) introduced the 'hood to top-notch Neapolitan pizza with partner Edoardo Mantelli at Saraghina back in 2009. Two years later, he left the beloved pizzeria to open this 40-seat spot focusing on Mediterranean seafood. Drawing on the cuisines of Italy, Spain and other seaside countries, the short, focused menu fills another void in the area's burgeoning dining scene with simple fare, like fresh oysters, sardines on a bed of watercress and julienned citrus peel, skewers of breaded shrimp and calamari, and bacalao mantecato (a whipped salt-cod spread) on broccoli puree. The nautical motif carries through to the restaurant's design—a deep-diver suit, lobster traps and fishing nets decorate the white-brick dining room.