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Mediterranean food is a family affair for chef-owner Umberto Arpaia. His father helms Fiorini just two blocks away, and his sister—burgeoning restaurant mogul Donatella Arpaia—runs Mia Dona and nearby Greek eatery Anthos. Umberto ably blends sweet and savory flavors at his inviting midtown restaurant. Seared tuna with grilled asparagus is anointed with a honey-mustard sauce; succulent duck gets a surprising splash of vodka-and-blueberry reduction; and magnificent ravioli, stuffed with sugary beets, do the bloodline proud.
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