Auteur chef turned hospitality entrepreneur Charlie Palmer is charging onto the New York sirloin scene in an attempt to redefine the steakhouse. At the first Gotham iteration of his meat-minded restaurant, the pioneer of New American cuisine pushes for change. “I want to be nontraditional—for a steakhouse,” he says. Shifts from the strip come in the form of sashimi on a salt block drizzled in lime-shallot dressing and sweet-corn-and-ricotta–stuffed agnolotti. “We don’t offer alternatives out of obligation,” Palmer says. “We put emphasis on them.” For flourishes, the toque taps his empire: desserts from Aureole’s Pierre Poulin (cheesecake pudding, caramel-chocolate cake) and brown spirit-forward cocktails (Man About Town, Doctor’s Note) from his intimate whiskey den, Crimson & Rye. But beefy mains dominate the docket nonetheless, from charcoal-grilled lamb to Kobe strips and even a whopping 40-ounce porterhouse for two.