Cherrywood Kitchen (CLOSED)

Pedigreed toque Chris Cheung (Jean Georges, Nobu) plates cherrywood-smoked fare at this rustic New American bistro. Fixed up like a grandfather’s study, the spot features dark wood, wrought-iron sconces and library tchotchkes (old books, clocks and globes). And Cheung smokes his food like your grampa smokes his pipe: Cherrywood-torched baby back ribs are glazed in sweet chili; smoked cipollini onions bob in braised-bacon soup with winter melon; and seafood is smoldered over the namesake wood, before being topped with Chinese sausage relish. Cocktails get a similar treatment: A rye old-fashioned, muddled with bourbon-soaked cherries, is finished with a splash of liquid smoke.