Everyday food that would soothe an irascible emperor is on the menu at this Theater District charmer. Grand-mère Marguerite Bruno, a 22-year vet of this 42-year-old kitchen, prepares favorites such as artichoke vinaigrette (the dressing is justifiably renowned), moules Josephine (mussels on the half shell baked with garlic, butter and bread crumbs), and shrimp served in a tarragon-flecked tomato sauce. For dessert, try the bombe pralinée, a rich slice of hazelnut ice cream layered with nut brittle.