Chez Oskar

Over on this mellow Fort Greene corner, a peach-slice moon spills its glow over glasses of rosé, bowls of moules and leafy salades vertes. Inside, a trio plucks out a French-movie soundtrack to back the bustle of a neighborhood bistro in full swing. The dining room is a cheerful hodgepodge of jazzy cafe-society paintings and potted plants reflected in big mirrors. Chilled butternut-squash soup drizzled with truffle oil goes down easy, as does a sprightly salad of arugula and pink grapefruit dotted with goat cheese. A rack of lamb special was oddly flavorless, but moist striped bass with expert pineapple risotto made a perfect pair.