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Lovely old photos on the walls show members of the Chin family, which hails from Guangzhou (formerly known as Canton) and serves classic provincial food in a genteel setting. A fine version of steamed bass, a typical Cantonese dish, starts with a whole unseasoned fish, which is steamed and covered with green onions, then doused with heated oil and soy sauce just prior to serving. In another regional specialty, richly spiced squab is minced and mixed with crunchy noodles, then served in refreshing lettuce-leaf cups.