Chiyono (CLOSED)

It’s easy to mistake Chiyono’s tiny windowfront—on Sixth Street—for another twinkling-light, curry-row joint. Once inside, however, baby pink walls and chocolate brown wooden slats make for a serene, home-style Japanese dining retreat. Chef-owner Chiyono Murano’s cuisine gracefully blends bold and subtle flavors. A tangy potato salad was sweetened only with raisins. A simple avocado salad was scented only with olive oil and pillow-soft strands of hijiki seaweed. The most exquisite dish we tried was tender fillets of fried cod dipped in a savory batter of egg and Japanese Worcestershire. You can pair your meal with something from the wine, beer or sake list, but we like the invigoratingly icy, home-brewed green tea best.