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Review
This “New York rotisserie” makes a good case that NYC has yet to reach peak roast chicken. While the discourse has our City Council members posting through it, Cleo’s lightly spiced bird, marinated in baharat and served with zhug, labneh ranch and Fresno chili, flies in at $32 for half—and $58 for the whole thing.
The vibe: Hard to get into, easy to be inside: that’s the West Village recipe for success. Alongside their lovely roast chicken, Cleo’s cute seating and see-and-be-seen windows make it unsurprising that reservations for a rotisserie restaurant are already booked out.
The food: Sides, like tender corn ribs dusted with za’atar, and skillet cornbread topped with a quenelle of melting harissa butter, are a joy to eat; so is Cleo’s Salad, its Little Gems tossed with sundried tomatoes and chickpeas.
The drinks: Why wouldn’t there be a cosmo, a paloma and an Aperol spritz on the cocktail list? When in the West Village, do as the West Village girlies; cheers to your roast chicken with your pink drink.
Time Out tip: While reservations book out fast (thanks to the West Village girls being so quick on the draw), it’s worth trying your luck with a walk-in.
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