Craft

Tom Colicchio’s restaurant set the trend of eateries “deconstructing” their menus (meaning it's up to you to order your protein, veggies and starch separately), but there’s little to recommend this enterprise. The price of a meal mounts with alarming velocity, and the food isn’t always worth the cost. Dry medallions of guinea hen plus limp white asparagus and al dente grits with fishy prawns add up to an underwhelming yet pricey meal. Then there’s the joyless setting, where patrons sit in near-silence and watch each other chew. Hardly fine dining, no matter how you put it together.