Crave (CLOSED)

This unassuming storefront (also a catering service) represents two undercurrents in the stream of Carroll Garden's evolution: while the sophisticated New American menu appeals to discerning Smith Street carpetbaggers, the no-frills décor and chummy service provide a welcoming atmosphere for long-time residents and families. Adventurous dishes mesh sweet comfort with spicy surprise—the chocolate chili cake demands your mouth’s full attention, and the all-spice laced rice that accompanies the goat-cheese-stuffed pork loin boasts a chewy berry compote. Even straight-up traditional fare, like the penne with sausage and fennel, or crab cake appetizer, tastes delicate and somehow novel.