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Crown Shy

  • Restaurants
  • Financial District
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
  1. Photograph: Courtesy Natalie Black
  2. Photograph: Courtesy Natalie Black
  3. Photograph: Courtesy Natalie Black
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Time Out Says

4 out of 5 stars

Nestled inside 70 Pine Street is a maître d' desk auspiciously stationed in the lobby of a highly sought-after Art Deco building. You might not know that hidden behind the stand is one of New York’s hottest new restaurants: Crown Shy.

I was happily surprised that at 6pm on a recent Friday, the space, located steps from Wall Street, was packed with a non-douchey crowdnot one conversation about ROIs was overheard. Crown Shy gives the illusion that it’s more chill than the address would infer: Servers wear white T-shirts and light-wash jeans with black high-top Converse, while Snoop Dogg’s “Drop It Like It’s Hot” hums through the speakers. 

For a moment, you might forget it’s all orchestrated by New York fine-dining elite: Crown Shy is the first collaboration between James Kent, longtime Chef de Cuisine at Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park and Executive Chef at NoMad, alongside Jeff Katz, Managing Partner of Del Posto.

First off, I love nothing more than a complimentary bread basket. Few restaurants offer it today, but Crown Shy’s pull-apart loaf with lemon zest and olive tapenade makes a strong case for a carb comeback.

We also feasted on gruyère fritters ($13) with chili and lime, essentially savory churros with a coating similar to the powdered cheese on junk food popcorn; an early signal that we were allowed to have fun in a fine-dining environment.

Still, it seemed odd that the fritters were more expensive than the much more elevated roasted sunchokes with cheddar and hazelnuts, the safest but most robust small plate ($12). This was followed by charred carrots atop a blanket of creamy razor clam foam, making the root vegetable look like it was sitting in a decadent first snow. The unorthodox use of horseradish with chicken-liver ragu ($18) was one of the best bites. I actually wanted more of the sharp, hot pepperiness in my sinuses to be turned up a few notches (years of Passover meals have primed me to handle much more horseradish).

For mains, we began with the buttery branzino, swimming in an orange pool of squash mole; a towel made of fines herbs helps dry off some of the richness ($29). The perfectly tender grilled pork chop ($35) was presented like a topographic map; carefully placed cubed Asian pears with mustard punctuate the landscape.

I’m not one to order just a scoop of ice cream after a meal, but something about pastry chef, Renata Ameni’s satsuma orange flavor told me to reconsider. The dessert, served with a hat of toasted marshmallow and crumbles of honeycomb, tasted like a creamsicle; a big enough scoop for sharing ($9). Residents of 70 Pine are quite spoiled with Crown Shy as their “neighborhood joint” that they don’t have to leave the premises to enjoy.

Emma Orlow
Written by
Emma Orlow

Details

Address:
70 Pine St
New York
10005
Price:
$$$
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