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In this age of endless innovations, it’s refreshing to find a restaurant serving food with no bells and whistles. The vibe at Da Gianni is formal—this is a white-tablecloth establishment. The Tuscan-Neapolitan menu is straightforward, but preparations waffle between sophisticated and heavy-handed. Restrained: juicy seared scallops served with braised, bitter radicchio. Over-the-top: breaded, bone-in veal chop stuffed with creamy fontina cheese. Check out the large back garden, a scenic respite from the otherwise bleak industrial surroundings.