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Photograph: Paul WagtouiczDeli Ramen at Dassara
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Photograph: Paul WagtouiczMushroom ramen at Dassara Ramen
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Photograph: Paul WagtouiczHeirloom tomato salad at Dassara
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Photograph: Paul WagtouiczDassara

Dassara: The Feed first look

A Brooklyn-inspired ramen joint debuts in Carroll Gardens.

By Christopher Ross

With New York still chasing tonkatsu perfection, it’s easy to forget that native Japanese chefs tend to approach their ramen bowls like Jackson Pollock attacked a canvas, employing whatever regional ingredients are at hand and improvising as they go. With that in mind, Josh Kaplan and Justin DeSpirito set out to create noodle dishes imbued with a unique Brooklyn terroir at their Carroll Gardens ramen-ya, taking ramen beyond the pork and miso fundamentals. Consider their Deli Ramen, which starts with a long-simmered chicken broth doused with chicken tare, loaded with matzo balls and topped with a pile of delicate Mile End smoked beef chashu. A small-plate menu continues the cross-cultural theme: There's an heirloom tomato salad tossed with miso-glazed lardons and bonito flakes, as well as a platter of fried chicken hearts accompanied by hot mustard and a house-made duck sauce. Grab a seat in the brick-walled bar area or settle into the quieter, 40-seat dining room which affords a view of the open kitchen. 271 Smith St between Degraw and Sackett Sts, Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn (718-643-0781)


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