Deli Ramen at Dassara
Mushroom ramen at Dassara Ramen
With New York still chasing tonkatsu perfection, it’s easy to forget that native Japanese chefs tend to approach their ramen bowls like Jackson Pollock attacked a canvas, employing whatever regional ingredients are at hand and improvising as they go. With that in mind, Josh Kaplan and Justin DeSpirito set out to create noodle dishes imbued with a unique Brooklyn terroir at their Carroll Gardens ramen-ya, taking ramen beyond the pork and miso fundamentals. Consider their Deli Ramen, which starts with a long-simmered chicken broth doused with chicken tare, loaded with matzo balls and topped with a pile of delicate Mile End smoked beef chashu. A small-plate menu continues the cross-cultural theme: There's an heirloom tomato salad tossed with miso-glazed lardons and bonito flakes, as well as a platter of fried chicken hearts accompanied by hot mustard and a house-made duck sauce. Grab a seat in the brick-walled bar area or settle into the quieter, 40-seat dining room which affords a view of the open kitchen. 271 Smith St between Degraw and Sackett Sts, Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn (718-643-0781)
The Japanese superlounge—which had locations in Tribeca and midtown before shuttering in 2014—is in similarly clubby company in lower Chelsea, also home to perennial playboy-favorites Tao and Buddakan. Taking over the former Cherry space at Dream Downtown, the 5,000-square-foot, 145-seat revamp comes courtesy of Beautique restaurateur Jon Bakhshi, who bought rights to the global chain last year. Bakhshi has tapped Top Chef alum Francis Tariga-Weshnak (Catch) to oversee a menu of modern-Japanese plates like sweet-potato ravioli with kombu foam; crab-pineapple rolls with yuzu mayo; and Tatsuta chicken with pickled eggplant.
Venue says: “Brunch On Saturdays Starting March 18th! $39 per person 3 course prix fixe menu or order a la carte!”