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With New York still chasing tonkatsu perfection, it’s easy to forget that native Japanese chefs tend to approach their ramen bowls like Jackson Pollock attacked a canvas, employing whatever regional ingredients are at hand and improvising as they go. With that in mind, Josh Kaplan and Justin DeSpirito set out to create noodle dishes imbued with a unique Brooklyn terroir at their Carroll Gardens ramen-ya, taking ramen beyond the pork and miso fundamentals. Consider their Deli Ramen, which starts with a long-simmered chicken broth doused with chicken tare, loaded with matzo balls and topped with a pile of delicate Mile End smoked beef chashu. A small-plate menu continues the cross-cultural theme: There's an heirloom tomato salad tossed with miso-glazed lardons and bonito flakes, as well as a platter of fried chicken hearts accompanied by hot mustard and a house-made duck sauce. Grab a seat in the brick-walled bar area or settle into the quieter, 40-seat dining room which affords a view of the open kitchen. 271 Smith St between Degraw and Sackett Sts, Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn (718-643-0781)