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Though you’re not likely to see superchef David Burke in the house (hostess with the mostest Donatella Arpaia can still be spotted), the townhouse-style dining room is still packed. Whimsy rules: One winning dish features “angry” lobster chunks spiked with chili oil, perched over a bed of nails. Desserts, such as a tree of cheesecake lollipops, keep with the culinary elbow jab. The food would be easy to ridicule if it weren’t so good. For a bargain, try the $24 three-course prix fixe.