Moderne? Not quite. This carpeted, casual counterpoint to chef Daniel Boulud’s blockbuster Daniel is showing its age (it opened in 2001). Even DB’s comically decadent burger—comprising ground sirloin stuffed with red-wine-braised short ribs, foie gras and black truffle shavings—feels a bit dated in a culinary landscape that includes places like Stand and BLT Burger. Still, it’s a worthy spectacle and, like most of the sprawling menu (it veers from gnocchi to coq au vin), rather delicious. The pre-theater–friendly eatery may be an old dog with old tricks—but it still merits a pat on the head.