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Forget trying for a table at Momofuku Ko. This counter-only fine-dining operation from Jack and Grace Lamb (Jewel Bako) delivers the kind of inventive, seasonal small-plates cuisine that has fans clamoring—only without jumping through hoops to secure the impossible reservations. Talented Wesley Genovart churns out impeccable contemporary Spanish dishes that can work diners into a state of euphoria. A velvety appetizer of a slow-poached egg with serrano ham, chorizo and superbly crisp cracker-encrusted asparagus is cloaked under a smoky-cheese foam. Genovart’s palate-teasing dexterity with flavors and texture continue into a straight-from-the-Greenmarket dish of sugar-snap peas with a fiery wasabi vinaigrette, an inspired pairing. Add the professionalism of the staff and thoughtful wine list, and the result is a truly special night out.