Deluge (CLOSED)

Don’t be put off by the bunker-like exterior of the Sheraton hotel where Deluge is housed. One step inside the restaurant is instantly reassuring. A lofty waterfall and wine-rack are first to catch the eye. And, while light oozes from overhead—the restaurant is situated below street level in the hotel’s atrium—gothic furnishings, curtained-off booths and light jazz set the mood for a meal awash with innovation and flavor: fried oysters wed with lemon chutney, hazelnut-crusted foie gras served over golden pineapple, lemon thyme–scented chicken breast accompanied by perfectly roasted Brussels sprouts and crisp chorizo. The menu is extensive, and, for as inconspicuous a spot as this in Flushing, bold. Expect staff to be cheerful and knowledgeable.