Every neighborhood deserves a decent bistro, so the Upper East has Demarchelier: close-packed tables, a chatty crowd and a relaxed bar. Main selections include calf liver splashed with sherry vinegar and buttery-sauced trout showered with nicely browned sliced almonds. Rib-eye steak béarnaise was big and wonderfully juicy. If this is your neighborhood, Demarchelier could be your place.