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The painstakingly crafted Neapolitan pies—cracker-thin crust with a pleasing char and a subtle Parmesan zing—have been prepared by hand for more than 50 years by Italian expat and 'za master Domenico De Marco at this unassuming corner joint. De Marco's pies (plain, sausage-pepper, olive- square) are widely considered among the city's best, using fresh dough that's made several times a day and herbs grown in the restaurant's window boxes, not only to flavor the sauce but to shower on top of your slice.