Diva (CLOSED)

Precious restaurants come and go in this finicky neighborhood, but Diva has held its own for nine years. It may be the dramatic, crimson-stained walls, the floor-to-ceiling windows (ideal for afternoon people-watching) or the sexy bar that snakes its way to the back of the restaurant. We just wish such bold choices extended to the menu. Although presentation is flawless, style can take precedence over substance—like an immaculate but tame buffalo-mozzarella-and-tomato tower that required more than a merely decorative sprinkling of basil and balsamic vinegar. Stick with a cocktail and sublime tuna tartare at the bar, or with a signature dish like the lobster-stuffed ravioli or cookie-crumb-topped apple tart. Otherwise, you’ll feel like you paid way too much for a night with Ms. Thing.