The allure of a personal clubhouse seems to be the impetus behind this bootstrap restaurant, a collaborative effort among four young friends dipping their toes into ownership for the first time. While the scrappy crew delivers fastidious service and a warm hipster vibe, the food smacks of an amateur kitchen. Many small dishes read like a stoner-food prank, including deranged but tasty “Nippon Nachos”—vegetarian pot stickers topped with pico de gallo and melted cheese. Other playfully plated dishes—a whole golden sea bass with thick, meaty fries, and a deep-fried dessert sandwich filled with cashew butter, bananas and Meat Hook bacon—are tasty enough, if you’re in the right frame of mind. But we couldn’t help thinking Do or Dine would work better as a supper club than a restaurant.
