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Dominick’s would like you to know that the real Little Italy is in the Bronx. At Charlie DiPaolo’s pinewood dining room—the most popular on Arthur Avenue—neighborhood folks, out-of-towners and tracksuited wiseguys feast at long, crowded tables on massive platters of veal parmigiana and steaming bowls of mussels marinara and linguine with white clam sauce. There’s no written menu, but you can trust your waiter’s advice.