Time Out says
Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.
Classic French cooking and an eye for quiet modernity shine bright at West Village newcomer Dominique Bistro. An architecturally grand space boasting 12-foot ceilings and a copper-plated bar, the 40-seat bistro fuses Parisian nostalgia and dramatic scale into a broad menu highlighting traditional French dishes from Chef Dominick Pepe, making his first foray as an executive chef.
Conventional appetizers like the Onion Soup ($10), and a frisee salad ($15) lend a familiar balance to more contemporary fare like the sumptuously plump Ahi Tuna Tartare ($19) and velvety Chicken Liver Mousse ($11), a delightful spread that’s whipped into a cloud-like consistency with brandy and cream. Escargots ($13) and a gamey charcuterie board ($21) are also on hand, but it’s a modish interpretation of Foie Gras ($21)—served atop a Belgian waffle and showered in a sour cherry reduction for a tantalizing explosion of sweet-and-savory decadence—that showcases Chef Pepe’s greatest strength: subtle reinvention at its finest.
;A hearty selection of entrees includes a vegan Ratatouille ($19), Steak Frites ($32) and homemade fettuccine with portelini mushrooms ($31), an inviting pasta lathered in a luscious vegetable broth fondue and sprinkled with black truffles, shaved table-side. The impeccably executed Duck Cassoulet ($29) yields joyously tender duck stewed in a warm tomato broth with salty pork lardons, and a succulent Beef Bourguignon ($27) proves delectable, with an 18-hour red wine demi glaze that’s unabashedly bold.
A subterranean piano bar provides further entertainment, as does an ample assortment of wine and beer and a simplistic dessert menu, which could use some spunk. But while Dominique Bistro undoubtedly achieves its classic ambitions, its greatest potential lies in its flair for elegant ingenuity.
14 Christopher St
|Cross street:||between Grove St & Waverly Pl|
|Transport:||Subway: A, C, E, B, D, F, M to West 4th St; 1 to Christopher St|
|Price:||$30 and under|
|Do you own this business?|