The slender 24-seat dining room is smaller than most studio apartments, but patrons are too busy eating dishes they’ve never encountered before to care. Richly marbled kampachi belly is snow white and served as sashimi; it’s firmer than toro but just as buttery. Raw fluke rolled around a sweet red pepper looks like a firecracker but tastes like candy—until a surprise pat of wasabi explodes in your mouth. End with a glass of jellyied white rice cakes and sweet red beans.
309 E 83rd St
|Cross street:||between First and Second Aves|
|Opening hours:||Tue–Sun 5:30–9:30pm|
|Transport:||Subway: 4, 5, 6 to 86th St|
|Price:||Average main course: $25. AmEx, DC, MC, V|
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