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Knowing what you don’t know is an important skill, so when Hemant Mathur—the tandoor master who helped Devi become the first Indian restaurant in the States to score a Michelin star—wanted to open a South Indian restaurant, he sought out a South Indian food expert. After a career working under boldfaced Indian chefs like Shiva Natarajan, Chennai native Krishnan Balashanmugam takes the reins at this Curry Hill kitchen, which is both a vegetarian and kosher operation. Using seasonal—and local, when possible—ingredients, Balashanmugam turns out dishes like vegetable uttapam, a naan alternative topped in spiced produce, or one of the namesake dosa, like one topped with onions and coriander.