Most bakeries are sought after for their sweets, but the savory stuff is the real star at this corner pastry haunt. Underneath a ceiling hung with empty cake boxes, vested bao gatekeepers parked near the wall-spanning display of shiny, glazed buns guide the pick-and-point operation, bagging treats in wax-paper packets—they rule against customers grabbing items themselves and, curiously, limit the amount of pennies you can pay with (FYI, it’s five per customer). Ask for the hot-dog-and-scallion bun—the eggy, clover-shaped crust of this Chinese take on pigs-in-a-blanket is studded with chopped franks and topped with green onion sprigs; or a baked char siu bao, sweet minced onions cutting through the salty, syrupy pork filling.