El Chivito d’Oro

Try not to faint as the server delivers the parrillada a tray piled high with grilled skirt steak, short ribs, sweetbreads, regular and blood sausages, veal loin and more—you’ll lose track after falling into a protein coma. Some of the cuts are a bit fatty and on the well-done side, but the overall quality is surprisingly high for the price: A single serving costs $19 and feeds three normal eaters; a double ($27) would feed a family of five. Remarkably, vegetarian dishes aren’t afterthoughts: enormous pasta plates, tortilla española of potatoes and eggs, and a huge portion of spinach pie stuffed with hard-boiled eggs is just $3.