El Huipil (CLOSED)

Were El Huipil in Hell’s Kitchen or on the Lower East Side, you’d easily pass by its generic awning and the glass facade revealing Mexican flags and bric-a-brac. But on a residential block in still-sleepy southern Red Hook, it stands out. The food is mostly excellent, though the tacos and tamales don’t measure up to the sopes picaditas, three little pillows of corn dough filled with black beans, salty cotija cheese, lettuce and crema. The mole of distinction here is a chocolate-brown version with roots in Guerrero, the Mexican state where the owners grew up. The smooth sauce smothers chicken and various enchiladas in its richness, and has a haunting smoky, bitter taste. A pleasant surprise: Breakfast is served all day.