El Matador (CLOSED)

Low-rent takeout joints abound on this stretch of Brooklyn’s Grand Street, but this intimate Spanish tapas spot offers an enticing alternative. El Matador doesn’t mess with the classics: A towering wedge of spongy tortilla Española—a savory combo of potato, onion and egg—is drizzled with rich garlic aioli. Gambas al ajillo was a generous serving of plump, intensely garlicky shrimp sauteed with bell peppers and sherry. Larger plates like tender, succulent pork chops marinated in tamarind and passion-fruit juice satisfy too. The place is tight, with just a handful of cramped tables. But the solid Iberian eats—and the BYOB policy—make it worth the squeeze.