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It’s unconscionable that many of us still have to travel so far to get good pupusas, but this homey place makes it worth the trip. Ask for curtido, the requisite coleslaw-like accompaniment. Beyond the pupusas are dependable dishes like sautéed chicken and sirloin steak topped with vegetables—hot sauce is optional. You could order a beer, but you shouldn’t miss the chance to sample chan, a weird fruit-punch drink thickened with gelatinous seeds.