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Kaleidoscopic banquettes, multicolored tiled walls, beige Lucite tables and Art Deco–inspired hanging lamps have made Elmo a favorite flash-and-hash hangout since it opened its doors three years ago. The large open dining room is filled with waiters in tight black shirts and customers in skintight jeans. Many items on the “comfort-chic’’ menu are uninspired, but the spinach-stuffed chicken paillard over lightly toasted brussels sprout leaves is magnificent. The downstairs lounge—where Cosmos dominate—is mobbed on weekend nights.
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