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If you like Manhattan’s Bar Veloce, try the earthier Enoteca Maria, whose real draw is the seven Italian nonni in the kitchen. One night it’s Gaia from Milano with gnocchi, the next it’s Theresa from Sicily making capuzelle. Co-owner Jody Scaravella recruited the chefs through Italian-language newspapers, but says she’s open to hiring American–born toques—so long as they cook like their grandmothers.