Erminia

A low-beamed ceiling and dark-wood paneling give the intimate room a cavelike atmosphere; dim lanterns allow diners a mantle of privacy despite the closeness of the tables. Dark-suited waiters move smoothly around the room as they attend to a mostly mature clientele of well-dressed couples. Chef Paolo Lattanzi, who, along with his brothers, also runs the Theater District restaurant Lattanzi, serves elegant Roman fare, like artichokes alla giudia; other dishes highlight house-made mozzarella and pastas. A perfectly al dente fettuccine had sun-dried tomatoes and roasted peppers in a not-too-rich tomato-cream sauce. Meat and fish dishes, such as halibut served with caramelized leeks or veal scaloppine with mushrooms and white-wine sauce, are expertly prepared and beautifully plated, making a trip to Erminia a worthy splurge.