Falai (CLOSED)

Though it’s ostensibly Italian, the sprightly flavors at Falai—a sleek, modern spot—transcend classification. Dishes that wowed included downy cod, complemented by an unexpected bitter-almond-and-chocolate-mint sauce. Thyme pappardelle was heavenly—ribbons of pasta coated in enough creamy ricotta and mashed fig to make each bite a dessertlike pleasure. Speaking of the final course, owner Iacopo Falai’s formal training as a pastry chef (at Le Cirque) yields elegant creations, like a raspberry soufflé with black truffle gelato.