Fanny (CLOSED)

Fanny is filled with antique-looking exposed-filament bulbs (replicas of the first model created by Con Edison); wood, slate and concrete walls; and cherry-maple wood tables. The owners, both French expats, have stocked the menu with bistro classics: An appetizer of steamed mussels is served in a terra-cotta crock with an addictive buttery and garlicky white-wine-and-shallot sauce. Among the entrées, the roasted chicken with mushrooms fricassee and spinach is most notable for its delightfully tender and juicy meat and for the way the chef—a French-trained Japanese man named Hiro Kiriyama—cooked the skin to a perfect crisp. Kiriyama prepares the desserts, too, and his gooey, raisin-and-pine-nut-studded apple strudel with fig ice cream arrived warm and tasted freshly baked.