New York’s endless hustle can lead a diner to want a restaurant retreat—a relaxing venue where you can enjoy a simple meal and a break from the outside world. Fatty Fish, located on the Upper East Side, is certainly one of those places. Its spa-like atmosphere washes over you upon entering, with dim lights, warm woods, and comfortable seating (a growing rarity in New York’s dining scene) waiting to usher you into your meal.
An eclectic menu overseen by chef-owner Roy Lamberty touts East-meets-West creations like a sushi pizza starter ($14), which reads, deceptively, like a menu gimmick to avoid. Don't. Impeccably fresh tuna comes layered over a crunchy, greasless wonton-based crust, all slicked with three sauces (eel, spicy mayo and mango) applied in precise amounts. It’s hard to stop eating it. A plate of lemongrass chicken dumplings ($6) proved serviceable, its vinegar dipping sauce cutting through the rich filling. Recent specials included soft shell crabs sautéed and served with spinach edamame risotto and black garlic sauce ($22). The edamame added lovely texture to the toothsome risotto and provided the perfect place for the savory crustaceans to rest.
A salmon bento box ($21) found the prized fish slightly overcooked, but an addictive side of shumai nearly made up for the misstep. Here, the garden-variety bento-box salad boasts the ideal dollop of ginger-carrot dressing—smooth, sparse (no overdressing here), and never cloying. On the drinks front, find a well-curated and moderately priced list of wines, a selection of Japanese beers (Sapporo, Asahi Orion) as well as Asian-inflected cocktails.
Service is just as comforting as the cuisine—the staff is attentive without being overbearing, leisurely pacing courses and offering drink refills. Relaxing and restorative, Fatty Fish is certainly a restaurant oasis.
BY: TIME OUT COMMUNITY REVIEWER LINDSAY DENNINGER
|Venue name:||Fatty Fish||Contact:|
406 E 64th St
|Opening hours:||Mon–Thu, Sun 11am–10:15pm; Fri, Sat 11am–10:45pm|
|Transport:||Subway: 6 to 68 Street-Hunter College|
|Price:||Average main course: $18|
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