Fitzer’s

Fight through the pubby, packed bar to the clubby back dining room, and the noise abates. Waiters dart about, delivering traditional Irish grub such as shepherd’s pie and corned beef and cabbage. Starters vary in quality: A light crab-and-avocado salad was perfect on a hot day; too-heavily creamed spinach-and-artichoke dip was ordinary. Two horseradish-crusted lamb chops are crossed and arched on a mound of goat-cheese mashed potatoes, all in a Marsala sauce. Order bread pudding smothered with berry compote, or an intimidatingly large slice of pecan pie, and don’t hate yourself for not finishing.