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White tablecloths and sparkling chandeliers suggest a finer dining experience, but a stage—bookended by wobbly speakers—and a disco ball dangling from a ceiling fan reveal this Bukharian joint’s true colors. Like Tandoori, Fortuna is a madhouse on Saturday nights. If you don’t fancy the mayhem, visit on a quieter Sunday afternoon, when you can sample plov (a savory rice dish tossed with lamb and carrot; $6.95) and skewered veal liver ($4).
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