Fratelli (CLOSED)

The NYC ritual of boozing and slice-eating is honored at this sparse, brick-lined Billyburg joint. Good thing we weren’t lit when we wandered in; uninspired, congealed pies—like a cherry-tomato-studded blanket of fresh mozzarella covering a wedge of chewy, slightly sweet crust—would have killed our buzz. A grandma square was a one-note affair (just cheese), lacking enough tomato sauce to cut the fromage’s richness. Healthier options such as a slice topped with artichoke, spinach and olives reminded us of something we’d get at Ray’s.