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Always inquire about the specials. You might find yourself with a steaming basket of shrimp just plucked from their pool, a briny soup brimming with scallops, a meltingly tender whole fish with ginger and scallions, or a chili-flecked Dungeness crab. Onshore, the kitchen is equally adept: Garlic-tossed baby bok choy is superb, and a deep-fried whole chicken with sticky-rice stuffing will draw covetous glances—and copycat orders (but they’ll have to come back for it; a two-day advance notice is required). Fuleen doles out $5 lunch specials to long lines of food-savvy downtown professionals; late at night, there’s a reversal, and you’ll see downtown-savvy food professionals.
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