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Butter-yellow walls and deep-green banquettes are the comforting hallmarks of this Tuscan eatery, a fine pre–Lincoln Center destination. The food has big flavors enhanced by a wood-burning oven. Ribbons of pappardelle are tossed with braised lamb, shiitakes and creamy mascarpone, and an entrée of earthy lamb chops is tempered by spears of asparagus. Tuck into warm chocolate-truffle cake with vanilla gelato before you depart.