Gallo Nero

The emphasis on vino is clear from the start: Gallo Nero’s name and logo are taken straight from the black rooster that adorns bottles of Chianti Classico. The star feature of the whitewashed dining room are the shelves crammed with selections from the 120-strong Italian list, including a number of affordable (around $12) quartini. The mostly small-plates menu encounters a few pitfalls, so stick with wine and a few modest nibbles, such as crispy crab cakes, nongreasy eggplant Parmesan and juicy grilled lamb chops, perched atop dense mashed potatoes.