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Coney Island is the land of aging landmarks, many of them coasting on a reputation that’s nearly a century old. This sprawling wedding palazzo, a neighborhood beacon since 1907, is a case in point. Savory pesto could do nothing to disguise the fact that a platter of perciatelli pasta was as brittle as when it came out of the box. But set your sights on the fried calamari and you could come out a winner.
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