George O’Neill’s (CLOSED)

The philosophy at George O’Neill’s second steakhouse (the first opened in Queens in 1933) seems to be “Don’t screw up a sure thing.” The location—within swiping range for many expense-account diners in the Kimberly Suites Hotel—hardly required strategic brilliance. Barring an enormous projection TV, there is hardly a frill in the place. Salads are large and straightforward (“the wedge” is a quarter head of iceberg lettuce with blue-cheese dressing). Meat is seasoned with salt and pepper, grilled and served on clean, white china. The waiters wear bland beige smocks and let the plates linger on the table—you could lose a finger by getting between a man and his last bite of steak.