Giano

Named for the two-faced Roman god Janus, Giano toys with yin-yang dichotomies to disappointing results. The high-concept exists everywhere from the decor— a rustic exposed-brick wall faces a pixelated sunflower print—to the menu. “Contemporary” dishes (a chickpea croquette cloaked in too-rich Gorgonzola cream, for example) are pitted against classic ones, like just-passable gnocchi in an intense four-cheese sauce. Genial service and decent desserts (an above-average tiramisu) help make Giano just what the neighborhood didn’t need—another middling trattoria.