Good Restaurant

“Good” understates the case at this comfortable West Village spot. With its urbanized-country decor (earthenware pigs, groomed cacti and artfully mottled walls) and amiable service, you sense you’re in assured hands before the food hits the table. And when the food does come, you may mentally rename the place “great,” or even “wonderful.” Evoking the latter are two plump chicken sausages and a side of crispy mushroom polenta cake, while a BBQ pulled-pork entrée smacking of a shotgun wedding of sauce to meat approaches the former. A (wonderful) plate of still-warm orange-sour cream donuts is undermined by a (merely passable) selection of dipping sauces.