Since 2013, Grand Central Oyster Bar Brooklyn has offered Park Slope locals a taste of a Manhattan icon, minus the crowds, commute and, admittedly, some polish. Diners who sidle up to the restaurant's bar, whether for the popular oyster happy hour or a casual dinner, are treated to service that is markedly more friendly than the transactional oyster-slinging of the flagship restaurant's high-volume counter.
Knowledgeable waiters happily guide diners through the Brooklyn outpost's impressive selection of oysters, which draws from both East and West Coast waters. And just as at the original, some of the finest bivalves are found beyond the raw bar. The legendary pan roast ($11.45) here is a sheer delight, boasting a half dozen Blue Point oysters bobbing in a chili-fortified cream with a plush mattress of squishy Texas toast to soak up all the delicious clam juice.
Beyond the shelled offerings, grilled cod tacos with chipotle aioli and pico de gallo ($12.95) are a superb starter with lightly charred medallions of fish enlivened by lime and a subtle, smoky heat. The tuna ceviche with cucumber, tomato and onion ($12.95), however, comes slightly bland with little hint of citrus or salt.
On the entrees front, seared sea scallops whispered with bacon ($26.95) taste doubly rich atop creamy Parmigiano-Reggiano risotto, but an aggressively acidic pea shoot salad knocks the dish off balance. Similarly, the pickled cabbage and carrot salad sounds like an interesting foil for the richness of pan roasted salmon ($20.95), but as a lukewarm bed for the fish, it misses its mark. In comparison to the superlative oysters, these flaws in execution stand out considerably.
Luckily, desserts are consistently delicious, with standouts like cinnamon-laced bread pudding ($7.95) and GCOBB cheesecake ($7.95) both serving as worthy treats to cap off the meal.
BY: TIME OUT COMMUNITY REVIEWER OMAR TUNGEKAR
|Venue name:||Grand Central Oyster Bar Brooklyn (CLOSED)||Contact:|
256 Fifth Ave
|Cross street:||between Carroll St and Garfield Pl|
|Opening hours:||Daily 11am-midnight|
|Transport:||Subway: R to Union St|
|Price:||Average main course: $20. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V|
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