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Traditional dishes that visit every taste bud are what Green Papaya does best—punchy green-papaya salad, tom yum, chicken satay, pad thai. Skip the quirky fusion ventures like Cajun flank steak. (If you can order the fuk thong without a chortle, you’re more of a man than we are.) Finish with iced coffee and a Banana Rama (bananas simmered in sweet coconut milk). Crisply folded cloth napkins and sparkling silverware give the room a slightly formal flavor, but the lunch and dinner specials ($4.95 and $9.95 respectively) and smiling waitresses make it clear that everyone is welcome.